The Hidden City: Popular and Less-Known Lyon's Traboules
- The Slow Explorer
- Jun 26, 2025
- 4 min read
The traboules are not merely shortcuts; they are the living historical spine of Lyon, with origins stretching back over 1,600 years. Their initial iteration dates to the Roman settlement (Lugdunum) in the 4th century, where they were built to allow residents of the lower slopes access to the river for water and to serve as protected defensive routes. This function was later refined during the Renaissance, particularly in the opulent Vieux Lyon, where architects integrated sheltered interior galleries and courtyards to allow wealthy residents to move between properties protected from weather.
The true legend of the traboules, however, was forged in the 19th century in Croix-Rousse, the "Working Hill." Here, the Canuts (silk workers) relied upon them as a critical logistical necessity: the hidden routes allowed them to transport rolls of fragile, finished silk quickly and efficiently from the workshops to the merchants along the river, crucially protecting the moisture-sensitive fabric from rain. Today, the traboules offer the slow traveler an intimate, quiet connection to this deep and continuous history, provided the unwritten rules of silence and respect are strictly followed.
Essential Traboule Logistics and Etiquette
1. The Opening Hours Rule
Most accessible traboules are through residential buildings and are open to the public only during daytime hours. Attempting to enter outside of these times is considered trespassing.
Practical Tip: Target the hours between 8:00 AM and 7:00 PM. Do not attempt to use the passages in the early morning or late evening. If the door is securely closed and shows no signs of opening, assume it is locked for the night.
2. The Doorbell Code
Many traboules entrances have coded doors. Residents understand that visitors need access, and some accessible passages are marked with a specific, silent logistical instruction.
Practical Tip: If the door is closed but the passageway is listed as public, push the small button labeled "Traboule" or marked with a simple illustration of a person, a simple arrow or the letter "P". Do not ring residential doorbells. If no such button exists, gently try the handle; if it resists, move on.
3. The Silence and Speed Rule
The courtyards and stairwells you pass through are private homes. Noise is the primary offense that leads residents to close these routes to the public.
Practical Tip: Walk through the traboules in complete silence. Do not speak loudly, answer phone calls, or stand still for long periods to take photos. Move slowly enough to observe the architecture, but quickly enough to avoid lingering in the residential space.
II. Most Well Known Traboules (Easy Access)
These traboules are the most famous, marked for tourism, and generally easier to access in the historic Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse neighborhoods.
1. Maison du Crible
This passage is famous for its stunning Renaissance interior and the central pink tower (Tour Rose). It is a highly visually rewarding route, though often one of the busier ones.
Location: Enter at 16 Rue du Bœuf and exit at 22 Rue Saint-Jean, 69005 Lyon
Practical Tip: Look specifically at the spiral staircase inside the tower as you pass; its architectural complexity reveals the dedication to beauty within these private historical homes.
2. Passage Thiaffait
A well preserved covered passage in the Croix-Rousse neighborhood, this route is now home to many artisan and designer workshops. It provides shelter and a focus on the Canut legacy of creativity.
Location: Enter at 19 Rue René Leynaud and exit at 14 Rue Burdeau, 69001 Lyon
Practical Tip: Use this passage for quiet provisioning or window shopping. The enclosed space naturally dampens street noise, creating a quiet atmosphere ideal for slow, linear walking.
3. Cour des Voraces (The Voracious Court)
One of the most emblematic traboules in Croix-Rousse, famous for its monumental staircase that descends several floors. It is highly symbolic of the silk workers' revolutionary spirit and industrial necessity.
Location: Enter at 9 Place Colbert and exit at 14 Montée Saint-Sébastien, 69001 Lyon
Practical Tip: Use this passage specifically to experience the sheer vertical challenge the Canuts faced daily. Descend the staircase slowly and focus on the architectural engineering required to connect these steep levels.
III. Less Known Traboules (Quiet Residential Access)
These passages are primarily through residential blocks, less heavily trafficked by tourists, and require greater logistical care and quiet observance of the rules.
1. The Passage de l'Argue (Presqu'île)
While modernized and commercial, this passage in the Presqu'île (downtown) is historically a traboule. It is a key logistical link and offers a quiet, covered route through the shopping district.
Location: Enter at 11 Rue de la République and exit at 24 Rue de Brest, 69002 Lyon
Practical Tip: Use this passage as a quiet, climate controlled refuge from the busy Rue de la République.
Passage Mermet
This passage connects the upper section of La Croix Rousse to the lower part. In the middle is a beautifully-painted staircase called Escalier Mermet. It’s also one of the few traboules that isn’t covered. The staircase is very steep and it’s not for anyone who hates stairs.
Location: 25 Rue René Leynaud and 25 Rue Burdeau
Practical Tip: If you’re only interested in visiting the steps and the painting, head to the entrance on Rue René Leynaud.
