Sol y Compás: 10 Unwritten Rules for the Slow Traveler in Seville

Seville, the sun-drenched capital of Andalusia, is a city defined by passion, intense history, and an unwavering commitment to leisure. Its social life is warm and communal, but it is structured by subtle Spanish and Sevillian rules that center on timing, public energy, and shared enjoyment.

For the slow traveler, observing these unspoken customs is essential to moving with the local rhythm, the compás, that governs everything from meal times to social greetings. Here are 10 essential unwritten rules to follow to blend into the heart of Seville:

Palace - Sevilla

1. Mastering the Sevillian Meal Clock

• The Rule: Seville operates on a famously late schedule. Eating and socializing are done much later than in Northern Europe, following the heat of the day.

• How to Handle It: Do not try to eat dinner before 9:00 PM. Lunch is around 2:00 PM - 4:00 PM, and dinner starts late, sometimes closer to 10:00 PM. Showing up at 7:00 PM marks you immediately as a tourist and may find you with a limited menu or an empty restaurant.

2. The Art of the Shared Tapas

• The Rule: Tapas are a communal experience. You order multiple small plates and share them, moving from bar to bar to sample new dishes and atmospheres.

• How to Handle It: Do not order a full plate just for yourself unless it's the main meal. Order one or two tapas and one drink per bar, eat standing at the bar or at a high table, and then move on (ir de tapas).

3. The Public Volume Scale

• The Rule: Unlike Northern European cities, Sevillians thrive on high communal energy; socializing is loud, passionate, and expressive.

• How to Handle It: Do not try to whisper in a bar. In bares and plazas, the atmosphere is meant to be loud and lively—join in! The general rule is: the later the hour, the louder the conversation. Silence is reserved for churches and midday siesta rest.

4. Siesta Hours Are Sacred

• The Rule: From roughly 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM, many small shops, independent businesses, and museums close to avoid the heat and allow for rest.

• How to Handle It: Respect the siesta. Use this time to have a long, unhurried lunch, visit a major attraction that stays open, or retreat to your accommodation for a cool rest. Do not plan on running errands during these hours.

5. The Handshake and the Double Kiss

• The Rule: Greetings are physical and warm. The standard social greeting between all genders, once introduced, involves two kisses on the cheek (dos besos).

• How to Handle It: When meeting someone new, be ready to offer two kisses (starting with the right cheek). Men usually shake hands, but men and women, and two women, exchange the dos besos. Wait for the other person to initiate to judge the appropriate level of familiarity.

6. The Napkin Disposal Etiquette

• The Rule: In traditional, busy, and often tile-floored tapas bars, the practice is to drop used napkins, olive pits, and sometimes even shrimp shells directly onto the floor.

• How to Handle It: Don't be afraid to drop your used paper napkin onto the floor near the bar. A bar floor covered in discarded napkins is often a sign of a popular, busy, and authentic local spot. (This rule is shifting in newer, modern establishments, so observe first!)

7. Respecting the Flamenco Mood

• The Rule: Flamenco is a deeply profound art form (arte jondo), not just entertainment. It expresses deep emotion (duende).

• How to Handle It: If attending an authentic performance, remain silent and respectful during the cante (singing) and baile (dancing). Do not talk, take flash photography, or clap along until the artist pauses or the palmas (clapping) naturally start.

8. The Right Hand for Transactions

• The Rule: Although not as strictly enforced as in some other cultures, using the right hand to give and receive items remains the common practice for basic transactions.

• How to Handle It: Use your right hand when exchanging money, passing plates of tapas, or toasting with a drink. It's a small nod to courtesy and respect.

9. Public Dress is Conservative (Away from the Beach)

• The Rule: While the city is very fashionable, dress tends to be smart-casual. Very revealing or beach-style clothing is reserved for the coastline, not the city center.

• How to Handle It: When exploring churches, cathedrals, or the old quarter, dress respectfully. Save swimwear and flip-flops for the pool. Evenings are generally dressier than days.

10. Tipping is Casual and Small

• The Rule: Tipping is not mandatory or based on percentages, as servers earn a standard wage. However, small appreciation is customary for good service.

• How to Handle It: Round up the bill or leave 5-10% in small change (coins) on the table after a full meal. For a few cañas (beers) or coffees, simply leave the small change (propina). Do not tip a lot, it can be confusing.

By embracing these unwritten rules, your slow travel through Seville will seamlessly blend with the city's rhythmic, warm, and passionate pace. ¡A disfrutar! (Go enjoy!)